Rajasthan : Udaipur

view of udaipur city the lakes and the landscape from the hill top Sajjangarh Fort

PANNA OFFERS HER CHILD AFTER SMUGGLING THE RANA OUT

We are in midst of changing times and for sure people have different perceptions about Rajasthan : is it a barren stretch of land? is it a desert ? If you are one of those people then change your opinion . The ride along a wonderfully maintained highway is as pleasant as your bedroom stay : the road cuts across the Aravalli mountains . With sharp yet small cliffs of sandstone on both sides of you and every inch of non rocky surface covered with lush green grass and cultivated barley the colours that you see are only green and greyish yellow and sky blue . Add to them the tree plantations on either side of the roads and you realise how green the Aravalli ecosystem could be?

Rajasthan is the land of history , of courage , of honour and of dignity . Standing as a shield to the invasions from the west the word that Rajasthan could use is sacrifice. One of the many dynasties of Rajputs in medieval Indian History are the sisodias who stood with their heads held high.
Let me tell you what sacrifice really means : the fort of the sisodias is under attack because of an internal succession feud between two brothers . The Elder dies and his son Rana Udai Singh is just about an year old . The younger Brother comes to eliminate the heir raises his sword and cuts the baby into pieces . Hidden in the same hall is Panna with a baby in her hand : this baby later on is crwoned the king . The Reason : Panna the foster mother of Rana Udai Singh kept her baby in place of Rana in order to keep the lineage of the mighty sisodias intact .


Let me tell you what courage is : When the mighty Mughals had captured the whole of Rajputana ,one kingdom was still at bay . That of the Sisodias . Todar Mal the Mughal general took on the numerically outnumbered but equally strong in nerves battalion of Rana Pratap . Rana Pratap who could wield such a heavy sword that in a single flash tore not only the cavalry rider from head to bottom but also the horse that was being ridden. A closely fought battle at Haldighati was won by the Mughals but the sisodias could not be captured , they came to the forests regained strength and ate only breads made from grass.

Let me tell you what honour is : after the capture by enemy forces the females in the fort committed mass suicide : so that no malicious eye could capture the body as pure as fire .

Let me tell you what dignity is : the fabled city still welcomes people of all backgrounds to visit the forts and lakes and add to the culture .

The Ciy of lakes is made of a unique system where the lakes of various sizes are connectedc to each other and intricately dammed to ensure that the flow from the catchment first fills the first lake to brim and then the next lake starts filling up and so on . The good enough green cover in the nearby hills ensure the catchment is always protected and the lakes are filled round the year . Also noteable is the fact that the water level is at the same level as the road but still the magnificence of levelling in the construction of the lakes ensures that the water does not come over the roads. Legend of Udai Singh is that he was asked by an ascetic to build the largest of these lakes the Fateh Sagar Lake .

The City Palace is a Heritage Hotel as well as a museum which reveals the lives of the royal people and their attendants. Marble Sandstone have combined to give the palace a grand look. and note the intricate passage ways that were amazingly designed so that only a resident could reach from one place to the other . The pillars are well carved and the palkis are magnificent . You start feeling like the durbar is taking place right in front of your eyes . Dont forget to see the sheesh mahal and the locations of the rooms of the Ranis The maharanis and the others.

Someone interested in sunset viewing has an opportunity to drive up to a Hill top fort managed by the Forest Department and experience the red sky the redder sun the fluttering larks and the pigeons . Ever gave a though why larks dont sit up on the ground anf fly constantly or at max on lines above ground ?

Himachal : Shimla Kufri and Chail

After a day long journey on the road you reach the capital . But the journey has been as much enchanting : across water filled dams , below clouds crisscrossed by multiple rainbows and the little hill towns and villages, not to forget the landscaping of the himachals.
At times you see heritage buildings of Maharajahs and of British. You stop at one of them at Chail : The Chail Palace . An exquisitely designed palace which has a wonderful bar : good wines , low charges and in a wonderfully served ambience.
Shimla is the place where british presence was maximum and this is pretty much evident as you walk along the MALL road. You notice victorian architechture including the one that experienced the meeting which partitioned India at the Shimla Conference. Local crafts can be bought at many shops as you explore the market . Clothing made from Yak wool is one of the prime sellers.

Himachal :Manali and Rohtang Pass

THE CLOUDS THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND THE COLD WIND

A VIEW OF THE MOUNTAIN ON THE SIDE OF THE PASS WITH TENTS OVER THE ICE

THE VIEW BELOW THE PASS : THE TRAFFIC JAM ON THE ROAD AND THE LAKE

HOT AIR BALLOONING FOR THE BRAVEHEARTED

For years you read about the dream destination for honeymoons and very soon you realise you are at the place. Manali is a popular hill station destination : so popular that roads get choked at the prime of the season.

Hotels are lined up along the stream that gushes right across . Cross over the bridge and you feel the popularity of the place. Markets at night are a real delight : if you are as lucky as me you could see a himachali marriage procession going along the road ,with all the traditional attire and beautifully dressed ladies. Just when the lights are about to fade you see a woderfull display of firehandlers . Local performer performs his skills with sticks on fire dangling between his legs and hands.

Wake up the next morning to rush to various other destinations :the prominent being Rohtang pass. This pass connects Kyelong with Manali through a ice covered gap between two mountains. The treachorous ride along stone bordered mountain roads could stop at a lake where traffic jam causes delays of hours. Have strong legs and a will to reach the top and you trek over the rocks , over the grass over the snow. be careful while walking on the snow for it is muddy ground beneath the ice and you could get feet deep into the ice without noticing it.

You start experiencing the wild during the trek :vultures ravens rare birds grazing horses and their attendants . At a place you see parasailing activity and wish to stop but then time is what you are short of . A point comes when ice begins to dominate the otherwise greyish green collage of the surrounding and you need to put on your ice goggles. when at the top you are at the rohtang pass . Two mighty mountains of white on both sides of you and a road bordered by at least 3 feet snow on each side. There are icesporting activities going on on the ice . And there are tents the warmth of which induce you to enter them . Just when hot tea and maggie were beginning to enter your thoughts you realise that they are being sold inside the tent.

There is much more at manali if you like adventure sports: hot air ballooning and river rafting . The temples around the place and the hot water springs are some other delightful places to visit around Manali. Dont Forget to pay a visit to the Van Chetna kendra and witness aome rare species of Pheasants ( Himachal is famous for the seven species of very colourful pheasants most of which are endangered ).

Himachal :Dharamshala and Mcleodganj

TYPICAL BUDDHIST ARCHTECHTURE











PRAYER FLAGS :WINDS REACH THE BLESSINGS TO AS FAR AWAY

INSIDE THE TEMPLE

Tibetans have a strong connection with highlands and their music also reflects the msuic of the elements of highlands. Wlaking along the streets of Mcleodganj you observe tibetans all around you. Momo Shops C D shops garment shops memorabilia shops. But the air is different around you -its the divineness that is magnified by spiritual chants of Om Mane Padme Hum being played at many C D shops. Visit the Monastery visit the temple sit at a restaurant enjoy tibetan momos and some beer.
The one thing that puts Tibetans apart from others humans is their self belief . A resistance that has persisted itself in the most non violent form cant be crushed so easily. So cant be their spirits be put down.
Come down to the valley and you are in lower dharamshala enjoying the market and a picturesque valley view. Dharamshala will be known in history for two things : India 's tradition of welcoming guests like Gods and the Tibetans tradition of will to fight all odds and contribute to their society. No wonder the place is called Dharamshala : The Religious House.

Himachal :The Great Himalayan National Park

The entire higher Himalayas is the home of the snow leopard

A VIEW WHILE GOING ACROSS THE TREK TO GHNP

PISTOL BUTT IN TREES : YOU CAN USUALLY

SEE THESE ON TREES ON THE SLOPES

HIPPO POINT: CHECK THE ROCK LOOKS LIKE WHAT


Forests for long have cradled rivers and streams to flow towards the plains and infuse lifeblood to many civilizations. Glacial melt as cold as the word itself rushes through stones through rocks changing directions , varying dimensions sometimes flowing below the ground sometimes over the rocks and yet making the same vibrations in your ears and the nerves and the brain .This sparkingly clear water has been disciplined in its flow and noise for ages. Even our forefathers sat on the same sand at sairopa hearing the same noise and threw a pebble on the water. The pebble richocheyed over the rocks and reached the other side where stands a forest rest house : accomodation for the trekkers to the Great Himalayan National Park. Welcome to the gateway of this park ... welcome to Sai ropa.

Few kilometres uphill along this stream can be motored. At the end you see a market with a traditional look . Shops of Wood , thatched roofs some better constructed but all having the same hospitality. Walk along this stream and you will find the lap of nature . Nature Fotography could be done nowhere else . You see butterflies , flowers and greenery all the way and alongwith it the clear water rushing into the opposite direction bubbling with energy.
Sometimes you see a few shops and stop for tea smoke aor maggi. Sometimes you observe fields of Ganja and other times orchards of apples. you venture into one of these and pluck a green unripe apple. The taste is bitter initially but the feeling is sweet :the feeling of having eaten a himachali apple right from the orchard.

Small rapids cascades are encountered and and then a bridge across the stream. Imagine a stream flowing in a valley with a hanging bridge that connects the two slopes . As you proceed the river goes much below you and you can hardly see the water but the music is still playing in your ears . Hold on and you see an excellent cascade -locally called hippo point : so called because the water falls on a big rock which has the same shape as of a hippo. Another half a kilometre and you have reached the gate of the park. Proceeding further is a challenge as the body is tired but the spirits are still alive.
The major preservation in this park is for the snow leopard , martens , serow etc . HImachal is known for multicolored birds called pheasants.

http://www.greathimalayannationalpark.com for more details

Himachal: Khejjiar

THE MEADOW AMONG THE THICK FORESTS
The journey is mostly down and surrounded by pine deodar forests . When you reach the place you realise that the pain was worth taking. They say it was a tectonic lake surrounded on all sides by hills draped in deodar and pine and one day the water subsided to the centre as a beautiful meadow emerged amidst thick tall forest slopes. Welcome to khejjiar-the jewel of Dalhousie.

Himachal : Dalhousie and Kalatop

DEODAR AND PINE FORESTS IN DALHOUSIE

THE LONG BOLES OF THE CHIR PINE KAIL PINE AND DEODAR

THE SKYLINE AS SEEN FROM KALATOP

HIMACHAL THE LAND OF MOUNTS AND VALES

Himachal Pradesh is the land of the himalayas: himachal meahing the lesser himalayas . A word about himalayas:an emerging chain of beautiful snow clad , meadowed stretch of peaks and valleys .
The gateways of the heaven open via Pathankot in Punjab and airport connectivity is through Jammu or Amritsar both of them lying at a distance of 188 kms. As your vehicle rushes throgh the snaking narrow roads ( either National highway 33 or National Highway 35 ) you feel the fresh air revitalising your innate energies . The trees around you have changed and the landscape is emerging like a phoenix . Welcome to the Deodar –Pine belt of India. Sometimes you climb up the road sometimes down the road as you see the mighty mountains which give a stark silhoutte against the flaky red setting sky . A few lights shine in those mountains indicating resthouses settlemenst or checkposts . The collage contrasts further as the deep valleys holding the dammed river Ravi touch your feet.
The lights have increased not only in number but also in intensity . Tin shacks tea stalls and the fragrance of a hill station-named after Lord Dalhousie the Viceroy of India who used this place as a summer retreat for his troops. You are now in a small hill town which has sufficient hospitality for you and great mix of natural and cultural heritage.
Entering the hotel you find the fragrance magnified-you realise the wood panelwork on the walls: the pine has its own aroma. You are reminded of the long boles of pine forest which spread their drooping arms filled with long needle like leaves. These forests are generally found above deodar forests and their wood has an oil which intersperses with the surrounding air . Burn the wood and you get a much magnified smell of the same. Imagine sitting around a campfire with logs of pine spreading fragrance all around you. Sometimes you stoke the fire with a half burnt log and if that does not suffice you try to blow really hard at the slowly dimming pieces of fire. The faded dimmed pieces turn red and intense and suddenly a flame or two reemerges from the logs.the long stands of pine and deodar silhoutted against the clear moonlight and some stars peeping at you from the carpet above.
Have you ever walked in a pine forest. Do it now. The slopes are covered in thick carpet of yellow green dried needles which prevent any grassy undergrowth . Sometimes a deodar emerges here and an other there . The difference : Deoadar has smaller needles and its arms are well spread out as if inviting you for an embrace . Rustling of the needles as you walk along the carpet disturbs the calmness of the serene environs . But never throw a burning matchstick on the floor as the leaves form an inflammable layer ( one of the causes of the forest fires in the temperate belts is the fact that fallen needles accumulate and don’t decompose soon enough and additionally the oily content of the leaves and the resinous canals of the wood provide enough incentive for an ignition.)
Just look over to the other slopes and you realise an otherwise yellowish green stretch scarred by barren brown patches. The anthropogenic interference that hits at nature makes you realise that there is need for protection of our natural heritage. The government has come forward with a unique timber distribution policy that takes into account the needs of the local people and maintaining the green.You walk across into the heights and realise that there is a beautifully built rest house in Kalatop. On the way don’t forget to check the vegetation some fallen trees some meadowed patches. You wish to sleep over the green carpet close your eyes and talk to the breeze that whispers into your ears the songs of the divine : budhists believe that winds when they blow pray to the almighty and that same prayer strikes your ears. Just a few metres across and you may have stepped onto the roof of a villager,s house. You realise this when you reach the edge and discover innocent little eyes looking at you with a strange welcome from below . Well the houses in hilly villages have a different construction : there is an overhanging porch over the open verandah on the uplifted groun anf with all wood construction the mostly two storeyed houses carry a charm to itself ;sometimes you observe tibetan prayers singing flags fluttering on the ropes in a pattern of colours aong a rope tied from the top of the ceiling to the ground.
But don’t forget to experience the unique scottish and victorian construction that is prevalent in the bungalows and churches in the locality.
Roads are well maintained and sometimes borderd by short walls that come straight out of a Robert Frost poem. A Himalayan Marten might be peeping behind this . Don’t adventure a lot as this creature can attack you . Just the sight of this beautifully painted shy creature should be enough excitement.
The evening deepens its dark cover and the stars come peeping out . The milky way flows right over you as you prepare to venture into the MALL road and most importantly the tibetan market.